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The Namib Desert

Namibia

 

The Namib Desert is often referred to as the world's oldest desert and has been in existence for some 43 million years, remaining unchanged in its present form for the last 2 million years. The Namib is an immense expanse of relentlessly moving gravel plains and dunes of all shapes and sizes that stretch along the entire coastline. The most widespread and dominant type of desert sand dune are linear dunes, with crescent shaped dunes common along the coast and clusters of star dunes, such as the towering horseshoe of dunes at Sossusvlei, found in the eastern reaches of the sand sea.It's an effortlessly beautiful landscape that encompasses the undisputed draw card of the Namib Desert, the famous sand dunes of Sossusvlei. Other features range from seasonally dry river valleys and salt pans to baking gravel plains and isolated mountain islands. The park extends to the icy waters of the Atlantic Ocean and also incorporates bird-filled lagoons and deserted, wave-battered beaches.
 
 
It comes as no surprise therefore to discover that the entire western section of Namibia is comprised of the Namib, which spreads beyond the borders of Namibia and flows into southern Angola and the northern Cape Province of South Africa. With ephemeral rivers flowing unexpectedly across an ancient landscape, its dunes, plains, rivers and a foggy coast have all become vital components to support an outstanding and fascinating array of bizarre desert flora and fauna.
 
Evidence of humans living in the Namib through time extends back to the early stone age era. But perhaps the most documented of mankind's existence can still be seen today in the many rock paintings, stone circles, tools and pottery that have been discovered over the centuries. The most famous rock paintings are at Brandberg and Twyfelfontein. The Topnaar are a well-known clan of long term residents of the Namib. More famous for living in the Namib-Naukluft Park, there are at least a dozen villages scattered along the lower Kuiseb River today.
 
A section of the central Namib Desert incorporates the Namib Naukluft Park, the largest park in Namibia and the 3rd largest on the African continent. The present day park is a combination of the Namib Desert Park and the Naukluft Mountain Zebra Park as well as sections of the Diamond Area. The combined area is just under 50,000km², from Luderitz to the Swakop River some 400kms. Its main attractions are Sossusvlei, Sandwich Harbour and the Naukluft hiking and four wheel drive trails
 
The Naukluft Mountain section of the park was initially created as a sanctuary for the Hartmann's mountain zebra. There is also an interesting historical back story to the region as they were the base of Hendrik Witbooi, an important player in the history of Namibia. The celebrated freedom fighter terrorized German Colonizers at every opportunity from his well protected mountain strongholds. In recognition of his exploits, Hendrik is fondly remembered with portraits on Namibian bank notes, an honour he shares with the founding father of Namibia, Sam Nujoma.
 
The harsh environment of the park challenges man and mammal alike. Carnivores are no exception and 3 of the larger species – black-backed jackal, brown hyena and spotted hyena have adapted to life in the desert. Spotted hyena live in the central and eastern regions, travelling in small groups where gemsbok, mountain zebra and occasionally Namib feral horses are taken. Black-backed jackals often scout the beaches in large groups for marine carrion, Cape fur seal pups and breeding birds. Brown hyena search for smaller items of food, usually alone and also take seal pups, eat insects and fruit as well gemsbok and springbok carcasses. Mountain zebra, chacma baboons, kudu, klipspringer, Cape fox, gerbils, steenbok and a healthy population of leopard are also resident.
 
 
Reptiles such as lizards and geckos, the sand snake and the side-winding adder inhabit this long, narrow wilderness. Smaller still are the scorpions, spiders, fishmoths and beetles that have adapted over centuries to survive in the dune dynamics of the desert. Insects use a swimming motion to travel through the sand beneath the surface, others dig burrows whilst certain adaptations such as shovel-snouts, protective eyelids and tubular nostrils allow other lizards to live below the surface.
 
Hiking around Naukluft Mountains is a very rewarding wildlife experience. As the mountains themselves touch the southern limits of Damaraland and the northern extremes of the Karoo, several bird species such as Herero chat, Karoo lark, Karoo scrub robin, cinnamon-breasted warbler, lesser honeyguide, pearl-spotted owlet, rockrunner, black-headed canary and Monteiro's hornbill can be found here. Namaqua sandgrouse gather in the morning at waterholes in their hundreds, the Karoo eremomela can be seen along the hilly areas of the escarpment and water in the rivers attract amongst other the rosy-faced lovebird. The riverine forests of the Swakop and Kuiseb Rivers entice pririt batis, swallow-tailed bee-eater and long-billed crombec.
 
Sossusvlei in the Namib Desert is the one attraction that should not be missed while you are in Namibia; the dunes are amazing and even though this is a popular tourist destination it is still easy to gain a sense of solitude while climbing one of the dunes or walking to Dead or Hidden Vlei. The Namib Desert section of the Namib-Naukluft Park also includes the Swakop and Kuiseb River Canyons.
 
Namib safari accommodation, especially in the vicinity of Sossusvlei, is plentiful and most lodges offer sumptuous living quarters, fine cuisine and expert guides. These guides will open up the secrets of the Namib Desert to you, bringing the world's oldest desert alive on game drives and interpretative walks. And of course no visit to the Namib Naukluft National Park would be complete without exploring the magisterial sand dunes of Sossusvlei, located at the heart of the park and providing sensational photographic opportunities.

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